Day 1
A COLD, EARLY MORNING...
A COLD, EARLY MORNING...
Yahoo! We caught a flight to Costa Rica this morning—a place we think we want to move to in about 6 to 8 months. Everything is in place at our home in Indiana, and my mom and a friend of our family will be watching our children who are 9 and 7 years old for one week. This is not nearly enough time to see what this diverse country has to offer, but it will have to suffice!
This morning, we got up around 3am, and put ourselves together quickly in order to catch a ride to the airport with my dad. What a gracious man! You know someone really loves you when they’re willing to come to your home that early to take you to an airport 30 minutes away. On the way to the airport, my dad shared his latest findings about this fascinating country—my parents have a lot of strong concerns about our possible re-location. Therefore, my dad is doing a lot of research in order to better understand where his grandchildren may end up living.
Our first flight (to Chicago leaving Indianapolis) left at 5:50am, and we saw an old neighbor at the airport. It’s always good to see old friends! We boarded our flight only to discover that there was some kind of faulty switch in the cockpit that kept us from taking off until two hours later. This nearly made us late to catch our next flight from Chicago to San Salvador, the capital of El Salvador in Central America. We still made it, though—right in time to board a flight to our final destination in San Jose, Costa Rica.
As we traveled through the beautiful, warm skies of Central America, my mind raced with anticipation about what we might find. Would it be all that we had read about? Over the past year, we’ve subscribed to a magazine called International Living that really opened our eyes to the possibilities of a life overseas. We’ve also done a lot of research, including watching episodes of International House Hunters on H>V, not to mention browsing the internet in relentless pursuit of much needed answers. A site on the internet that really helped to narrow down our decision was Scott Oliver’s http://www.welovecostrica.com/.
As we stepped off our plane in San Jose, I immediately felt the humidity of this tropical climate—a much needed break from the icy temperatures of winter in Indianapolis. (I might add that we were treated with great hospitality on our Taca flight, and enjoyed good food accompanied by first rate entertainment!) We hadn’t checked any luggage for our travel today, so we didn’t have to wait at the baggage claim for bags that might never arrive! We quickly made our way to the car rental agency to get our car for the week, and hop on the road!
This was my first impression of Cost Rica from our car: what a clean place! I’ve traveled through Central and South America quite a bit, and some places are really dirty, and people litter like crazy…but not in Costa Rica. I thought to myself, “This place is so clean, and the driving isn’t crazy.” Now—driving is still different here than in the USA, but much safer than in places like Spain, Honduras, Peru, and Argentina. I feel much safer on the highway here! Also, we noticed a lot of people working out--jogging along the side of the road or walking the dog.
We ended our drive in the small town of Atenas, Costa Rica. We were so excited to stay in our quaint, little hotel.
Costa Rica, Pacific Lots, Phase 9 - Part 1 from Scott Bogard on Vimeo.
Costa Rica, Pacific Lots, Phase 9 - Part 2 from Scott Bogard on Vimeo.
After unloading our luggage inside, we quickly got back into our truck for some exploration--what we love to do! Note to self: if you choose to visit and explore this part of Costa Rica, a 4-wheel drive vehicle is a must. As you travel up and down this stretch of highway, you either turn toward the ocean or toward the mountains. Either way, you often encounter rough terrain.
Day 6
Day 2
LET’S LOOK AT HOUSES in ATENAS!
On our second day, we needed to start looking at local houses in the city of Atenas--a city where beach volleyball is oh-so popular! According to what we’ve read, this small town is a favorite for ex-patriots, Europeans, and Canadians alike. The temperate climate lends itself to bearable, summer type days, where the temperatures peak in the low 80s and high 70s. It’s cooler in the morning but the sun shoots out around 5:30am—it seems to shine steady throughout the course of the day, with occasional clouds passing overhead. Later in the day, you can count on cool evenings, where you might need to put on a jacket or sweatshirt. What could be better than warm, sunny days, and cool, calm nights? (Rain showers are only occasional, but will be heavy to moderate during the typical Central American rainy season.)
We had already contacted and organized meetings with different realtors in the area and were excited to see the sites of the area, and explore downtown Atenas. Due to some conflicts in schedules, we ended up traveling through the city on our own to check out a local school (Green Valley School), and we searched for rentals in two well-loved neighborhoods called Vista Atenas and Roca Verde.
All in all, we found some amazing properties that would be perfect to rent for 6-8 months until we find a permanent location to live long term. (For a great realtor in Atenas contact our friend Olga Gonzalez).
This is something you need to know: most people who move to this area are retirees looking to invest their hard-earned pension in real estate. We, however, are a young married couple who need work to take care of our family. In Costa Rica, you can’t work for a company unless you have a visa. However, you can start a local business and earn a livelihood that way. Scott and I are definitely entrepreneurs, and as we travel, we try to identify needs in an area that we could fill.
Day 3
VISITING THE SOUTHERN ZONE...
We arose early this morning to get on the road to take the new highway to the area typically called the southern zone. (check out our video from the highway)
As we traveled south along the Pacific coast, we noticed that the temperature began to change considerably! In the Atenas area, the heat is dry but not very humid. As we headed to the coast, however, lots of humidity started to creep in…the sun became noticeably warmer. We began to see fish for sale and see advertisements for seafood. And, my goodness, what a view from the highway! If you’ve never seen the Pacific Ocean from this area, you’re in for a surprise…the waters are a beautiful blue and turquoise…some beaches have dark, volcanic sand, while others feature lighter, white sands. There are rocky, craggy stretches of beach, as well as soft, sandy beaches where the sand stretches far into the ocean so you can wade out quite a distance.
A new highway was recently built in this area that far surpasses the old one—we’re told that a journey down the coast used to take a whole day, (on bumpy, uneven roads) but now only takes about 4 hours. We traveled south through cities like the popular Jaco, Playa Hermosa, Manuel Antonio, Dominical, Uvita, and Ojochal—our final destination. We rented a home in the Pacific Lots development…a beautifully crafted luxury home literally carved out of the jungle! We enjoyed the first of three days overlooking the Pacific Ocean from our private swimming pool. Not too bad, huh?
Costa Rica, Pacific Lots, Phase 9 - Part 1 from Scott Bogard on Vimeo.
Costa Rica, Pacific Lots, Phase 9 - Part 2 from Scott Bogard on Vimeo.
After unloading our luggage inside, we quickly got back into our truck for some exploration--what we love to do! Note to self: if you choose to visit and explore this part of Costa Rica, a 4-wheel drive vehicle is a must. As you travel up and down this stretch of highway, you either turn toward the ocean or toward the mountains. Either way, you often encounter rough terrain.
For the remainder of our day, we visited a school called Escuela Verde (Green School) in the small, quaint town of Uvita. It is a place (along with the other coastal cities mentioned above) where lots of ex-patriots are settling down for retirement; but it’s a good mix of people. In fact, as we visited Escuela Verde, we were told that there were six different countries represented in a first grade class! Languages spoken in this class are currently English, Spanish, French, Dutch, Austrian, and Indian. Wow! What diversity! We enjoyed seeing where our children could possibly attend school. Escuela Verde is headed up by two charming women of American descent; they love children, no matter their nationality. Their goal is to bring American standard education to the Osa Peninsula. (Their standards for education are based on the requirements for the state of California.)
We stopped at a beach where high peaks of volcanic rock opened up at the base to present tunnels you can actually walk through at low tide…at high tide the waves come crashing through the small chambers of these long tunnels and no one should dare enter. Besides this, hermit crabs cover the face of the same beach…big ones, tiny ones…we thought about our daughter and her love for wildlife…she would’ve been collecting them like crazy to bring home as pets.
EXPLORING THE OSA PENINSULA...
We arose early in the morning—probably around 5:45am. There’s just so much to see and do! Each day is filled with such warmth and possibility! We both sat down to eat breakfast together, and to drink a wonderful cup of coffee to start. Then, we got dressed and moved out the door!
During the course of these two days, we visited countless properties for sale or rent in Ojochal, Uvita, and Dominical. (Contact Kent Thompson for a great realtor in this area.) In fact, we visited so many that we became worn out. There are ranch style homes, two-story homes, traditional Costa Rican style homes, and magnificent mansions. Most all of them feature a swimming pool. Some are in need of repair (which helps to reduce the asking price), while others are luxurious and modern featuring every possible amenity. The properties we saw ranged from $290,000 all the way up to $1,000,000 plus. Many homes come fully furnished, while some are a blank canvas waiting for your personal touch. Mortgages are not common here, because most buyers are retirees who have money to spend that they’ve been saving for years and years. You can get a mortgage, but need to have money to put down on your chosen property and be willing to pay it off in five years or so—not 20 or 30. Property taxes are significantly less here (0.25% of the declared home value) so this helps to reduce whatever your monthly payment would be.
Although we were visiting homes carved from the jungle, we didn’t see too much wildlife, which was a plus for me! I can do without it! And if you like to explore and enjoy the outdoors, there is so much to do in this area. You can visit countless different beaches all with their own distinct features, climb waterfalls in the jungle or repel down them, soar over the jungle canopy by zip-line tour, or take a tram to view the canopy. There is first rate hiking, swimming, kayaking, snorkeling, scuba diving, and much, much more…not to mention 37 restaurants to visit. Scott and I love to eat out! There are Italian, French, American, German, and typical Costa Rican restaurants to mention a few—you can find what you’re in the mood for!
At the end of the day in the Osa Peninsula, we decided that this was a place of opportunity. There are countless business ideas that would go over great here. If you’re an entrepreneur, this could be the booming place you’re looking for! Because of the diverse group of people who want to live as retirees, there is a need for lots of services to cater to this group, and to their children and grandchildren. Lots of families stay here for half or part of the year every year, even though their children are not grown.
Day 6
BACK TO ATENAS...
Well, our time in the Osa was finished, and we made our way closer to the airport up north. We hopped on the road bright and early after packing up, and then headed to a gem on the coast called the Cuna Del Angel Hotel for breakfast. This is a magnificent hotel nestled on the coast near the town of Dominical, with a superb restaurant featuring food that includes American style dishes that you would be used to.
Then, onward and upward we continued north! We stopped at a stretch of beach in Playa Hermosa to see what the fuss was about, and checked into the cost of a rainforest zip-line tour as well: $65 per person to zip through the rainforest (Jaco Canopy Tours boasts 13 years of experience, and all snakes you see are free of charge!) In fact, I saw more wildlife in the 15 minutes I spent talking to Roberto at Jaco Canopy tours than I had seen the entire trip!
A bright green, 4-foot snake was wiggling his way down the side of the mountain, just in time to greet us…the tour guides said he was searching for a small frog he’d accidentally let go earlier. We turned around to witness an iguana fight, and large leaf-cutter ants carrying their precious leaves to a hidden destination. All the while, our snake friend was creeping up behind us, certain that his meal was nearby. A guide from Jamaica called to us to turn around and move, and we did just that!
We hopped back in the car to find some good food at the Los Suenos Resort just north of Jaco. Now, this place is a jewel! It includes a marina, shopping, condominiums, rentals, beautiful grounds, a golf course, and much more that I can’t remember!
We grabbed an American style sandwich at a restaurant/bar called The Hook-Up, but could’ve eaten at two other more elegant restaurants—one Italian and one Asian. When you’re inside the Los Suenos compound (and it is like its own little world once you pass through the gate), there is opportunity at your fingertips! A hotel is also located within this resort area. After a satisfying lunch, we continued north to Atenas where we would spent our final night in Costa Rica!
OUR LAST NIGHT IN COSTA RICA...
Scott and I arrived at our hotel in Atenas--Vista Atenas Bed & Breakfast. This beautiful B&B features perhaps the most marvelous view in all of Atenas! We could see the whole San José Valley from our vantage point--four volcanoes, the shining lights of the cities beneath, and brilliant stars that appeared in the night sky. While standing by the pool to gaze at all of the beauty, we met some great people from Tennessee who were visiting friends of their own--retiree friends who had moved to Costa Rica because of the more affordable lifestyle. We spoke with them for nearly an hour, before they went out to dinner at one of the many restaurants in town.
After unpacking in our room and excitedly chatting about all that we had seen during the course of our trip, we headed out to eat at the Sports Bar in the center of Atenas--you'll have no trouble finding it--it's the only sports bar in Atenas! And it's not just a bar, although it does feature alcoholic beverages. We enjoyed a wonderful, American-style dinner: I ate Caesar salad with grilled chicken, while Scott dined on a delightful blackened fish complete with veggies and mashed potatoes. We sat near the entrance of the "bar" so that we could easily enjoy the sights and sounds of the nearby bustling street. Looking out into the plaza, (a park-like setting typically located in the center of a town), we noticed families enjoying the cool evening temperatures, a man trotting by horse down the street, and countless people smiling and talking with friends and neighbors. We couldn't help but notice the energy of the social scene in Atenas...
When we arrived back at our B&B, we stood by the pool to look down at the cities, lights, and bustle below. All of a sudden, I said to Scott, "The ground is moving beneath my feet..." I suppose that's a funny thing to say, but the words just flew from my mouth! Scott curiously stepped over to where I was standing, and then we felt it--an earthquake! It lasted about 10 seconds, and right away, I dashed toward the nearby dining room located near to the pool! Scott called to me not to go inside, but rather to keep outdoors...and as soon as it had begun, it ended. The B&B owner walked from her kitchen outside to see us, and said nonchalantly, "It happens all the time--no big deal. They say that tiny ones from time to time mean there won't be a huge one that destroys." Her words didn't provide a great deal of comfort, but if she wasn't upset about it, we found no reason to be either!
We went to bed, eager to see a steaming volcano in the morning--we were told that one of the four volcanoes could be best seen during the morning hours, and that steam actually pours from it constantly. As with the earthquake, it's said that a constantly steaming volcano keeps a huge eruption from happening--I hope all these theories are right!
As promised, we saw the glory of a steaming volcano as we enjoyed a delicious breakfast poolside...as we ate breakfast together, we lamented over the fact that we would soon be leaving this beautiful country, not knowing for certain when we would return.
We grabbed an American style sandwich at a restaurant/bar called The Hook-Up, but could’ve eaten at two other more elegant restaurants—one Italian and one Asian. When you’re inside the Los Suenos compound (and it is like its own little world once you pass through the gate), there is opportunity at your fingertips! A hotel is also located within this resort area. After a satisfying lunch, we continued north to Atenas where we would spent our final night in Costa Rica!
OUR LAST NIGHT IN COSTA RICA...
Scott and I arrived at our hotel in Atenas--Vista Atenas Bed & Breakfast. This beautiful B&B features perhaps the most marvelous view in all of Atenas! We could see the whole San José Valley from our vantage point--four volcanoes, the shining lights of the cities beneath, and brilliant stars that appeared in the night sky. While standing by the pool to gaze at all of the beauty, we met some great people from Tennessee who were visiting friends of their own--retiree friends who had moved to Costa Rica because of the more affordable lifestyle. We spoke with them for nearly an hour, before they went out to dinner at one of the many restaurants in town.
After unpacking in our room and excitedly chatting about all that we had seen during the course of our trip, we headed out to eat at the Sports Bar in the center of Atenas--you'll have no trouble finding it--it's the only sports bar in Atenas! And it's not just a bar, although it does feature alcoholic beverages. We enjoyed a wonderful, American-style dinner: I ate Caesar salad with grilled chicken, while Scott dined on a delightful blackened fish complete with veggies and mashed potatoes. We sat near the entrance of the "bar" so that we could easily enjoy the sights and sounds of the nearby bustling street. Looking out into the plaza, (a park-like setting typically located in the center of a town), we noticed families enjoying the cool evening temperatures, a man trotting by horse down the street, and countless people smiling and talking with friends and neighbors. We couldn't help but notice the energy of the social scene in Atenas...
When we arrived back at our B&B, we stood by the pool to look down at the cities, lights, and bustle below. All of a sudden, I said to Scott, "The ground is moving beneath my feet..." I suppose that's a funny thing to say, but the words just flew from my mouth! Scott curiously stepped over to where I was standing, and then we felt it--an earthquake! It lasted about 10 seconds, and right away, I dashed toward the nearby dining room located near to the pool! Scott called to me not to go inside, but rather to keep outdoors...and as soon as it had begun, it ended. The B&B owner walked from her kitchen outside to see us, and said nonchalantly, "It happens all the time--no big deal. They say that tiny ones from time to time mean there won't be a huge one that destroys." Her words didn't provide a great deal of comfort, but if she wasn't upset about it, we found no reason to be either!
We went to bed, eager to see a steaming volcano in the morning--we were told that one of the four volcanoes could be best seen during the morning hours, and that steam actually pours from it constantly. As with the earthquake, it's said that a constantly steaming volcano keeps a huge eruption from happening--I hope all these theories are right!
As promised, we saw the glory of a steaming volcano as we enjoyed a delicious breakfast poolside...as we ate breakfast together, we lamented over the fact that we would soon be leaving this beautiful country, not knowing for certain when we would return.